Come along with us as we spend three days in London and two weeks aboard the Viking Jupiter!

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When we began researching British Isles cruises, this Viking cruise seemed to stand out above the others we considered, due to the itinerary with several stops in the UK, as well as stops in the Republic of Ireland and Norway. In addition, Viking offers an included excursion in every port, beer and wine are included with meals, specialty restaurants are included at no extra cost, and Viking has a reputation of being one of the most rewarded and loved cruise lines. This is not a pool-party cruise. Viking ships are adults-only, the crowd is generally a bit older, and the focus is squarely on destination immersion. With resident historians on board offering enriching lectures on the planned destinations, along with an upscale cruising experience, it was the perfect fit for us.

The Itinerary

The British Isles Explorer is a port intensive 15 day itinerary that sails from London to Bergen, or vice versa, depending on your sailing date. The ports include London/Greenwich (England), Dover (England), Isle of Man (British Crown Dependency), Dublin (Republic of Ireland), Holyhead (Wales), Belfast (Northern Island), Ullapool (Scotland), Kirkwall (Orkney Islands), Edinburgh and Inverness (Scotland), Lerwick (Shetland Islands), and Bergen (Norway). There are two sea days interspersed with the ports. On embarkation day, the ship overnights in London, and at the end of the cruise, it overnights in Bergen. Overnight stays allow you more time to explore the port and not have to worry about returning to the ship. Be aware that Viking occasionally changes the ports for various reasons. The current BIE itinerary offered in 2026 includes Liverpool instead of Isle of Man, and Aberdeen instead of Inverness. 

The Ship

All Viking ocean ships are identical and decorated in a Scandinavian minimalist esthetic. Each ship sails 930 guests and 465 crew members, so the service is superior.  All cabins on Viking ocean ships have balconies and none have obstructed views. We sailed on the Jupiter in cabin 5110. Our cabin was an aft cabin in the Deluxe Veranda category. Aft cabins are on the back of the ship and have a 180 degree view from the balcony. We have sailed in several aft cabins on various cruise lines and we love them. 

On Viking, your cabin category determines when you are able to book shore excursions and make specialty dining reservations. The higher priced cabin categories have access to book excursions before the lower priced categories. The cabin categories, amenities, and booking dates are clearly spelled out on the Viking website before you book. After booking, you will have access to the My Viking Journey section of the website, where you can book excursions, make payments, and access any other information you need. Do not be concerned if you are unable to book excursions before you sail. You will be able to book excursions and dining reservations, and make changes to any excursions you pre booked, once you are on the ship. Viking guarantees one included excursion at every port of call (not one per day). 

The Weather

We sailed in August/September of 2023. This is one of Viking’s most popular itineraries, and it usually books up quickly. We actually booked it two years in advance. We chose this time of year to avoid the larger summer crowds and heat and it was the perfect time to go. We actually experienced mostly sunny and warm weather for the duration of the trip, and only had rain on our last day in Bergen. We use Weather Underground to check the weather history of the destinations we are visiting. This gives us an idea of the historical temps, plus an actual forecast a few days before we leave home so we can adjust our packing if needed. Do keep in mind that if you go a bit earlier in August, most of the UK is on holiday at this time of year, and attractions can be very crowded.

Dress Code and Packing

Viking’s dress code is “elegant casual.” This means casual wear like jeans, slacks, or shorts during the day, and smarter attire like dresses, skirts, or slacks with blouses for women, and collared shirts and trousers for men in the evening. Jeans are allowed in the World Cafe, but not in any of the sit down restaurants. You do not necessarily need to dress up for dinner, but we like to change out of our day clothes into something nicer for evenings on the ship. You will see a few people wearing their casual clothes they had on that day for the excursions, but most people dress a little nicer in the evenings. There are no formal nights on Viking ships.

We generally pack in a carry on suitcase and a backpack each, so we tend to pack a bit lighter and plan to do some sink laundry along the way. We don’t mind, and it keeps us from checking our bags, and thus preventing them being lost by the airline. We packed lightweight, quick dry clothing for this trip, as is normal for us. We like lightweight Columbia or Eddie Bauer hiking pants, and we are fans of Merino wool tee shirts, tops, and jackets for day wear. I also like to wear skirts and dresses, so I packed a couple of each for this trip. I always wear casual black merino wool slacks on flights, and also wore those frequently around the ship. We both wear/wore uniforms in our careers, so we like dressing up a bit when we have the chance. To learn more about packing in a carry on and not checking bags, you can read our packing advice here.

Money/Tipping

The UK countries on this itinerary are not part of the EU and use Pounds Sterling (£) as the official currency. The Republic of Ireland (the Dublin stop) and Norway use the Euro (€). We simply used our debit card to access an ATM in London for some cash for tips for drivers, guides, and hotel staff. We did not have the need to get any Euro cash. Alternatively, you may want to get some Pounds or Euro cash from your bank before you leave home, although you will generally pay a higher rate for this. Apple Pay and Google Pay are widely accepted throughout Europe, and we used Apple Pay almost exclusively on this trip. Please see our Compete Money Guide for traveling abroad for detailed information. A note about American Express: this card is not as widely accepted in Europe as it is in the US, so you should take an alternative credit card.

The tipping culture in Europe is different from the US. They pay their waiters and bar tenders a living wage, so they don’t rely heavily on tips to supplement their income. Generally speaking, a 10% tip is customary for good service in restaurants and bars. We like to leave the tip in cash instead of adding it to the bill when possible. In London hotels, we generally tip £2 per night, and we leave the tip each morning as the housekeepers may change. 

Once on the ship, tips for local guides and drivers are expected for good service and not included in the cruise fare. Viking’s current recommendation is $5 per guest for half day tours and $10 per guest for full day tours. Tipping for drivers is recommended at $2 to $6 per guest. Please make arrangements to get some local cash for tips. We always use an ATM once we arrive at our destination. (See our Complete Money Guide for Traveling Abroad for more info on safely using ATMs.) Tips for the ship’s staff and crew can be prepaid before the cruise, or added to your account and paid on the last day of your cruise. Current recommended tipping amounts are $20 per guest per day. Tips for bar service are automatically aded to your bill at the point of service, and these tips are separate from the tips for the ship’s staff and crew. Tips for spa services will usually be added to your bill, so check before signing or adding an additional tip to make sure you don’t accidentally tip twice. Tips are always at your discretion.

The Pre Trip to London

We planned to fly into London three days early to adjust to the time change and do some sightseeing before embarking the ship. It is always a good idea to fly in at least one day ahead of embarkation in case your flight is changed or canceled, which actually happened to me on this trip. (Steve took a jump seat on his airline.) My overnight flight from Detroit to London was canceled due to a mechanical issue and I could not get a flight until the following night. We lost our first day in London, where we had theater tickets and tickets for a Champagne spin on the London Eye. We stayed at the Strand Palace hotel near the Covent Garden and Charing Cross tube stations, and within walking distance to everything we wanted to see. 

The easiest and most efficient way to get to central London from Heathrow Airport is the Heathrow Express. This train takes you directly from the airport to Paddington Station (about 16 miles) in 15-20 minutes, depending on your arrival terminal. Other trains are available, but with longer transit times and several stops along the route. When you arrive at Heathrow, follow the signs to the platform; you may have a 10 minute walk. Buy your tickets on the official Heathrow Express website in advance for the best rates. Fares run as little as £10 and trains run every 15 minutes. Once at Paddington, we took the Baker line to Charing Cross, then walked the last 10 minutes to the hotel. Taxis are always available.

On the day we arrived, we hit the ground running with no time to rest. We dropped our bags at the hotel and set off to visit The Tower of London. This was our second visit to the Tower, and it never disappoints. Be sure to book your timed entry tickets in advance on the official ticket website. We had fish ‘n chips at a local pub, took some photos of Big Ben, and strolled through Westminster. Back at the hotel, we checked in and changed for our dinner and drinks at Gong on the 52^nd floor of the Shard building. We enjoyed beautiful sunset views and had a lovely evening. Definitely make your reservations in advance for Gong. 

On our second day, we visited the Churchill War Rooms. Located beneath Westminster, this is one of London’s most underrated experiences. Walking through the underground bunker where Churchill and his cabinet directed World War II, with the original maps still pinned to the wall, is extraordinary. Book your tickets in advance and allow at least two hours. From there, we walked past 10 Downing Street, visited Westminster Abbey (again, pre-booked tickets are essential), then walked down to Buckingham Palace for some photos. 

We had dinner reservations at the Swan Restaurant on the Thames next to Shakespeare’s Globe Theater, then saw As You Like It  at the Globe. The current Globe Theater is a replica of the original, but you sure feel like you’ve gone back in time when you walk in and take your seat. We purchased our tickets in advance, but you can get standing tickets for just a few pounds on performance days. If you don’t mind standing, it’s one of the best deals in London.

The Cruise Day 1 Wednesday 8/23

Viking considers the day you board the ship as day one of your trip, so you will see that reflected in this article and on their website. On this cruise, the ship overnighted in London on the first night, so we wanted to make the most of our sightseeing time. We knew we could get on the ship any time, so we booked an all day private tour to Bath and Stonehenge at sunset through Viator. We dropped our bags at the pier at 9 am, informed them we would be boarding the ship around midnight, then took the tube to the meeting point for the tour. Be sure to keep your passport with you if you drop your bags early. You cannot board the ship without it. The tour was fabulous and we highly recommend it. We had private access inside the stone circle at Stonehenge, with an archeologist to answer any questions we had. Normal tours during regular business hours do not get access inside the circle and must stay outside the roped off areas. We can’t say enough about this spectacular tour. It also included a visit to the Roman baths in Bath, a drive through the Cotswolds, and lunch in Lacock. You will have to check Viator for the current offerings for this tour, or book just the Stonehenge portion through the official English Heritage website. Tickets are extremely limited at sunrise and sunset and sell out quickly.

We finally arrived back in Greenwich at the cruise port at about 11:30 pm. At Greenwich, you must take a water taxi (no fee) from the pier to the ship, which is moored in the Thames River. We were exhausted by this time and one of the last people to embark the ship, so we headed straight to our cabin. To our surprise, Viking had dinner and drinks waiting for us in our room. It was such a nice surprise. We ate a few bites, showered, and fell into bed, happy to be on the ship and excited for the next two weeks. 

Day 2 Thursday 8/24 Greenwich

Our first full day was spent easing into ship life and exploring the port area around Greenwich. The included Greenwich on Foot walking tour was a wonderful orientation and included the Royal Observatory, the Prime Meridian line, the Cutty Sark (outside only), the Old Royal Naval College, and a stop at the Greenwich Market. Our guide was genuinely passionate about the area’s maritime history and made the whole morning feel like a private tutorial. If you would like to explore the Cutty Sark in more detail on your own time, you can purchase tickets here. 

Viking uses knowledgeable local guides for all their tours. You will need to use your provided Quietvox audio device for all excursions. They are located in your cabin on a charging stand. Average group size for the included tours can be 20-40 guests. If you prefer a smaller group, as we often do, you will need to book private or shared small group tours in advance. You can often book taxis and other local tour services directly at most ports.

I spent the afternoon in the Nordic Spa and had my first massage, which was amazing after our whirlwind London days. I tried all the Viking bathing rituals, including the sauna, the cold plunge pool, the therapy pool, the snow grotto, and the cold bucket shower. Quite refreshing! We then had afternoon tea in the Wintergarden. The scones were delicious and the violin music created a lovely atmosphere. We changed for dinner and went out on deck for the sail away down the Thames around 6 pm. We then had dinner at the Chef’s Table, Viking’s most intimate dining experience. It’s a multi-course tasting menu with paired wines and a chef who walks you through each dish. We found it surprisingly easy to get reservations here. The menu changes every day so it’s a new and different experience each time. We spent the evening trying the Armagnacs (part of our Silver Spirits package) and dancing to live music in Torshavn. Torshavn became our go-to spot most evenings. It’s the most lively area of the ship. 

Even though wine and beer at meals are included with your cruise fare, we always purchase the alcohol package when we cruise. There are lively debates about this online, so I won’t debate it here, except to say we find the drink package a good fit for us. It’s not just about the cost and getting your “money’s worth,” as some people like to argue. It’s more about the experience. We love the camaraderie with the bar staff, the amazing service and additional drink choices, and not being concerned with being nickeled and dimed while on our trip. In addition, the Silver Spirits package includes complimentary access to standard tasting events, discounts on premium tasting events, and premium wine parings at the Chef’s Table. The best part? Having the bar tender make your Aperol Spritz and Gin and Tonic without even asking when you walk into the Explorer’s Lounge each evening. Current prices are $27 per guest per day, much more affordable than most cruise lines that charge $90 to $130 per guest per day. 

Day 3 Friday 8/25 Dover and Canterbury 

The included Historic Canterbury tour took us to the UNESCO-listed Canterbury Cathedral, one of the most impressive Gothic structures in England. The history here is long, with Thomas Becket’s murder, Chaucer’s pilgrims, and centuries of archbishops. Another excellent Viking guide made it all come to life. After the included tour, we peeled off on our own to Dover Castle, which towers over the famous white cliffs. The medieval castle and secret wartime tunnels are compelling on their own, but the views across the English Channel toward France are spectacular. 

Back on the ship, we watched the White Cliffs of Dover fade into the distance as we sailed away toward our next port. The famous cliffs rise 350 feet from the water’s edge and are composed of chalk and bits of black flint that give them their characteristic white appearance. We stopped in for drinks at the Explorer’s Lounge, the beautiful two-level bar on the bow of the ship with floor to ceiling windows and beautiful views. We made some new friends that we met up with each evening before dinner. There is plenty of comfortable seating, tables to share and play games, as well as a quiet library area here also. We had sushi for dinner at the World Café, the ship’s casual, buffet restaurant that wraps around the stern with panoramic views. Then we settled in at Torshavn for live music and nightcaps. 

Day 4 8/26 A Perfect Sea Day

Today was spent entirely at sea, and it was absolutely worth savoring on this port intensive itinerary. We had a lazy brunch at Mamsen’s, the Norwegian deli tucked near the Explorer’s Lounge, which serves open-faced smørbrød sandwiches, Norwegian waffles with brown cheese, and excellent coffee. It’s a cozy little spot and quite popular on sea days. Do not miss the gluten free Suksessterte, or Success Cake, Viking’s signature almond sponge cake. 

We joined a bridge tour, attended a wine tasting, dipped our feet in the infinity pool on the stern of the ship, stopped in for afternoon tea in the Wintergarden, and had drinks in the Explorer’s Lounge. We attended the port talk and a lecture in the theater before dinner. We had another fabulous dinner at the Chef’s Table, and it was one of the best meals of the entire trip. We ended the day in, you guessed it…Torshavn.

Day 5 8/27 Isle of Man

The Isle of Man surprised me. I expected a pleasant, slightly obscure stop; I got a genuinely fascinating island with its own parliament (the oldest continuous parliament in the world), its own culture, and an independence from both the UK and the EU that gives it a slightly otherworldly quality. The Isle of Man’s claim to fame is more than just their Celt and Viking heritage. It also includes their namesake Manx cats, being the birthplace of the Bee Gees, the world- renowned TT Motorcycle race, and the distinction of being the home of the largest working water wheel in the world—The Laxey Wheel—built in 1854. The included Panorama Tour gave us a great overview of the landscape and key sites, plus followed part of the TT route around the island. 

We then spent a couple of hours at the Manx Museum in Douglas, which tells the island’s story from prehistoric times through to the present. The Viking connections are real and well-documented here — the Isle of Man was a significant Norse settlement, and the runic crosses alone are worth the visit. We truly enjoyed this stop that was a substitute for Liverpool on our sailing. The museum is easy to locate and a short walk from the pier where the tender boats drop you. Admission is free, but they request a roughly $10 donation, which we were happy to offer. 

Back on the ship, we had time for afternoon tea before attending the lecture, which was given by Dr. Fenella Bazin, a local historian who was born and raised on the Isle of Man. Dinner was in the main dining room. While we enjoy the specialty restaurants, the main dining room is not to be discounted. The food is delicious and the service is superb. 

Day 6 8/28 Dublin, Republic of Ireland

Dublin deserved more than a day, but we made the most of it. The ship actually docks in Dún Laoghaire, and you are tendered to shore. If you take the included City Views of Dublin tour, it will include a 30 minute drive to the city center. The included tour gave us a quick overview of the key landmarks including Trinity College, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, and Merrion Square. Panorama tours are not the best tours Viking offers, as you do spend quite a bit of time on the bus, but they give you a nice overview to decide if you want to return at a later date. 

We snapped a few photos before we headed off for our Guinness Storehouse Experience. Viking offered this as an optional tour, but if you are interested in going on your own, it’s easy to do. Be sure to book tickets well in advance, as it’s a very popular attraction with seven floors of brewing history, brand mythology, interactive exhibits, and plenty of places to eat and drink. The highlight of the tour is, of course, the Gravity Bar on the top floor with a 360-degree view of the city and a perfectly poured (included) pint. It’s touristy, but it’s touristy in all the right ways. After the tour, we walked around Dublin for a bit, and took a city bus back to the port. 

Once back on the ship, we had time for a bite of sushi in the World Café before the day’s lecture. We really found ourselves enjoying the lecture series. They are very well done, and feature a variety of speakers with varying backgrounds. After dinner in the main dining room, we headed back to Torshavn for drinks and live music.

Day 7 8/29 Holyhead, Wales

We docked at Holyhead this morning and took the included Scenic Anglesey tour through the striking landscapes of Wales’s largest island. The highlight was a stop at the village with the longest place name in the world — a 58-letter marvel of Welsh that roughly translates to The Church of Mary in the Hollow of the White Hazel near the fierce whirlpool and the Church of Tysilio of the Red Cave. We all stood in front of the famous sign, took the obligatory photo, and attempted to pronounce it, failing spectacularly. This tour also spends a fair amount of time at the World of Shopping store here, where you can purchase everything from prepared food and alcohol to trinkets and clothing. The bus drivers deserve a sweeping ovation for their skills at parking those full size busses in that tightly packed parking lot. We tipped them well. 

I had my second massage this afternoon, timing it perfectly for a quiet afternoon while we sailed onward. By this point in the trip, we were enjoying the rhythm of our routine—wake up, visit the port, explore, return, spa or lecture, drinks, dinner, music. We were at the half way point and definitely did not want to think about having to end our trip. Today’s lecture on the Giant’s Causeway was given by geologist Dr Alan Riles. We really loved his lectures and found him personable, funny, and enthusiastic. Dinner this evening was at Manfredi’s, Viking’s Italian restaurant with a curated wine selection and delicious desserts. Definitely think about ordering half portions of the main courses, they are hearty and filling. It is imperative to have a reservation for Manfredi’s. It’s a small venue and fills up quickly. 

Day 8 8/30 Belfast, Northern Ireland

Belfast is a city in transition. The included Historic Belfast tour didn’t shy away from the complex, painful recent history of the Troubles, taking us through the mural decorated walls of Falls Road and Shankill Road, and offering an honest, nuanced account of what this city has been through and how far it has come. Our guide grew up in Belfast during the Troubles and carries vivid and painful memories of the tragedies that took place here. We stopped at the Peace Wall at Cupar Way to leave our own mark on the wall (this is optional, of course). Our guide provided Sharpies. Our tour also took us to Belfast Castle and Belfast City Hall for inside visits, with a quick stop at Belfast Parliament Buildings for photos on the hill. The driver dropped us the Titanic Museum at our request, while the rest of the group returned to the ship. 

We spent the afternoon at the Titanic Museum, which is as much about Belfast’s industrial heritage and working-class history as it is about the ship and its brief, storied existence. The building, designed to echo the prow of the Titanic, is spectacular, and the interactive exhibits inside are worth visiting. The museum is located on the dock where the Titanic was built. We took The Titanic Experience tour, which is a self-guided tour through the exhibitions, and The Discovery Tour, which is a guided indoor/outdoor walk where you hear stories about the designers and ship builders. 

Viking offered an optional tour to the Titanic Museum, but we purchased our tickets several weeks in advance and were glad we went on our own to enjoy as much time as we wanted. With a little research, we have always had good luck with private tours and/or purchasing tickets directly, and are not afraid to book activities on our own. They are often more affordable than the ship’s offerings, and allow you to spend more quality time at the location, often with much smaller groups. From the Titanic Museum, we could see our Viking ship across the harbor, but we were unable to walk directly back to the pier, so we took a quick and affordable taxi.

Day 9 8/31 Ullapool, Scotland

Day nine found us docked in the Scottish Highlands in the small fishing village of Ullapool. Ullapool is located on the northwest side of the island on Loch Broom, which forms a natural harbor. This was our first stop in Scotland, and I was moved to tears by the lone bagpiper in traditional Scottish dress who came to greet the ship. I stood there and bawled like a baby at this gentleman and his beautifully haunting music as we disembarked. I cry at Hallmark commercials, so this was not really surprising. Poor Steve always has to explain that I’m fine when I’m crying in public. 

We had attended the geology lecture the previous evening with Dr. Alan Riles, and it intrigued us enough to skip the included walking tour of Ullapool and instead book the optional Knockan Crag Hike. Dr Riles, with whom we later had drinks and chatted with at length, spoke with the infectious enthusiasm of someone who has never once stopped being amazed by rocks, so we couldn’t pass this up. The hike took us to see the formations in the Moine Thrust Belt, where much older rocks have been pushed over the younger ones by tectonic forces. We saw exposed rocks that were three billion years old. The hike was spectacular and should not be missed. If you are in good health and can climb a flight of stairs easily, you will have no problem with this gently sloping hike. The excursion is about three hours total, with the hike portion lasting about two hours. 

Back on the ship, we attended another lecture with Dr Fenella Bazin on women in Norse and Viking history, and attended a bourbon tasting event. We forced ourselves to sample the bourbon, as we are not really fans, but the evening was fun and we learned a lot from the fabulous bar staff in Torshavn. We followed that up with dinner and headed back to Torshavn for a nightcap. 

Day 10 9/1 Kirkwall, Orkney Islands

Today we docked in Kirkwall, the administrative center of the Orkney Islands. Orkney is well known for its Viking heritage, as well as being home to many neolithic standing stones. The included Highlights of Historic Orkney tour took us to the Ring of Brodgar, a 5000 year old UNESCO World Heritage site where 27 stones remain standing from the Bronze Age. We also drove past, but did not stop at, the Standing Stones of Stenness, another UNESCO site, and considered the oldest henge in the British Isles. There are several standing stones in this area of Orkney, suggesting that it may have once been an area of great importance. This tour also took us to the small town of Stromness, where we had some free time to explore. When we returned, we had some free time to take the shuttle into Kirkwall, stroll the streets, and visit St Magnus Cathedral, which dates to 1137. The ship was only in port until 2 pm today, as we were headed back south to Edinburgh for tomorrow’s stop.

We spent the rest of the day enjoying the ship, attending the lecture, participating in the Q&A with the resident astronomer (we had attended a lecture with her earlier in the voyage), having dinner, and attending the show in the theater. We truly enjoyed the show with guest entertainer Lee Bradley, whose operatic tenor voice was spectacular, along with his stories and sense of humor. Definitely do not discount the shows on Viking ships. While they are not the big production numbers you see on the larger cruise ships, these smaller, more intimate shows have a charm all their own and are truly delightful. 

Day 11 9/2 Edinburgh (Rosyth)

Today we docked in the port of Rosyth, across the Firth of Forth from Edinburgh. It was a very full day. We booked a private tour with Edinburgh Tour Guides to learn the history behind some of the Outlander filming sites. While we enjoy the show, we are not crazy super fans who think Jamie Frazer is a real person and swoon over the mere thought of him. This is a real issue that many Scots have with Americans who come to Scotland with this mindset. You can read the controversy on any Scotland travel Facebook group. Tourists have gone so far as to damage the Frazer Clan grave marker at the Culloden Battlefield. It’s ridiculous, so don’t be the infamous Ugly American if you are an Outlander fan. 

Our driver/guide Steven came dressed in a kilt and was friendly, knowledgeable, and fun. He kept us on track so we could see everything we hoped to see and get back to the ship on time. I think he was secretly glad were weren’t crazy Outlander people. Again, we highly recommend taking the time to research private tours, as you will often find them more affordable and more intimate than the larger ship tours. Be sure to book well in advance, as there are a finite number of private tours available, and your ship may not be the only ship in town. 

Our tour first took us to the small village of Culross, which was used for the location of fictional Crainsmuir in the series. Culross was once a thriving port city with large exports from coal mining and salt panning. The harbor was filled in after the decline of these industries, but some of the architecture and the beautiful buildings have survived, including the 16^th century Culross Palace and the Culross Town House. 

Next we visited Doune Castle, which dates from the 14^th century. Doune was the location for the fictional Castle Leoch in the series, and has been used as a filming location for several films, perhaps most famously for Monty Python and the Holy Grail. Mary, Queen of Scots, stayed here on several occasions. We purchased our tickets at the door and took our time following the audio guide inside the castle. 

We drove past the Kelpies on our way to Linlithgow Palace, which dates from the 12^th century. The palace served as the fictional Wentworth Prison in the series. Linlithgow Palace has a long and storied history and is perhaps most famous for being the birth place of Mary, Queen of Scots. It was used extensively by many generations of Royals throughout its history, and was finally destroyed by fire in 1746. You definitely get an eerie feeling walking through the burned out, hollow structures where so much history came before you. We purchased tickets at the door, and there is also a small gift shop here. 

We stopped for a traditional Scottish lunch of black pudding and haggis (and more edible food such as ham, eggs, and French fries; sorry Scotland, we love you! 😊) on our way to Blackness Castle, which dates from the 15^th century. This castle served as Fort William (which is a real place) in Outlander, as well as being used for several other films. It is known as the “ship that never sailed,” due to its long, narrow shape, and its point, or bow, jutting out into to water’s edge. It has served as a Royal residence, a prison, and military garrison. We happened to be there on the day they were reenacting the Siege on the Forth and were delighted with the show. We purchased tickets at the door and enjoyed walking around inside the castle and the courtyard. 

Our final stop was Midhope Castle, which dates to the 15^th century, and served as Lallybroch in the Outlander series. Midhope is a privately owned property and part of the larger Hopetoun Estate. Purchase your tickets at the bottom of the driveway and walk up the short hill to the castle. You are welcome to walk around the grounds, but the castle is derelict and you cannot go inside. And please, don’t call it Lallybroch. 😊

If you are a fan of the show, you will enjoy each location on this tour and feel like you have stepped into the screen and back in time. For non-fans, these castles are simply extraordinary medieval ruins in spectacular settings, oozing centuries of untold stories and history from their walls. Viking offered an optional Outlander tour, but we were very glad to have booked this tour with Edinburgh Tour Guides for a more personal experience. We highly recommend you do the same. 

Day 12 9/3 Inverness (Invergordon) 

Today we docked in Invergordon, which is about 25 miles north of Inverness. Viking offered several tours to historic Inverness (the capital of the Highlands), and to the surrounding areas, but we booked a full day private Highlands tour with Invergordon Tours. Our driver/guide Ben was once again extremely knowledgeable, kind, professional, and a joy to spend the day with. Our scenic drive along the north shore of Loch Ness first took us to the spectacular ruins of Urquhart Castle (pronounced Eckert), which dates from at least the 13^th century. We found the visitor center very well done, and the ruins easy to navigate. You may purchase tickets at the door. There is a lengthy downhill path to reach the castle from the visitor center, so keep in mind what goes down must come up, unless you get on the Jacobite Loch Ness Cruise, as we did. 

Our cruise along Loch Ness was just as mythical as we expected, and made even better with a sparkling glass of Champagne. The enormous size of the loch—755 feet at its deepest, and 23 miles in length—along with its dark, smoky appearance, made it seem entirely possible that something was lurking down there. We were optimistic, yet Nessie remained hidden. Our cruise northward on the loch lasted about an hour, took us through Loch Dochfour, and ended at the entrance to the Caledonian Canal, where Ben was waiting for us.  

We were not prepared for the range of emotions that accompanied our visit to Culloden Battlefield. The stories in the visitor center told of the men who fought and died for the ill-fated cause of returning the Stuarts to the Scottish throne. The battle was brutal, effectively ended the Jacobite cause, and changed the Highlands and the course of Scotland history for centuries to come. The battlefield itself is windy and sprawling, so take a jacket and allow plenty of time to walk the trails, see the battle lines, pay your respects at the mass graves, and understand what happened here. Tickets can be purchased at the door, and there is a gift shop and cafeteria here where we grabbed a quick bite. 

Our final stop was the Bronze age standing stones and burial chambers of Clava Cairns. It’s difficult to imagine that these stones were already a thousand years old when the ancient Romans were building the Colosseum. It is a solemn place, and deserves your quiet respect. There is no entrance fee, and you are free to touch and walk amongst the stones. Be aware it can be a bit muddy at times. Clava Cairns was author Diana Gabaldon’s inspiration for Craigh na Dun in the Outlander series, and it’s easy to make the connection if you have read the books or seen the movies. 

Back on the ship for the evening, we were once again serenaded by a group of bagpipers as we pulled away from the pier. The Scots sure know how to welcome you and give you a sendoff. This time, I didn’t cry. We attended the very informative lecture on the Shetland Bus, had dinner at Manfredi’s, and enjoyed the music and drinks at Torshavn once again. 

Day 13 9/4 Lerwick, Shetland Islands

The Shetland Islands are the very northernmost part of the British Isles, are closer to Bergen than to London, and were once a Norwegian possession. The landscape is treeless, windswept, and hauntingly beautiful, and the islands are full of Viking and Norse history and influences. Our included Shetland Panorama and Ponies excursion took us through Lerwick and around the island with a few photo stops, and to a small farm where we got to pet the ponies. If you are fan of the BBC show Shetland, as we are, you will easily recognize the building used as the police station, and the house used as Jimmy Perez’s residence. If you are not a fan of the show, well…you should be. 

In the afternoon, we booked the optional Ancient Civilizations Tour, which took us to Jarlshof. Jarlshof is an extraordinary archaeological site where Norse longhouses sit directly on top of Iron Age wheelhouses, which sit on top of Bronze Age structures. It’s 5,000 years of human habitation layered in one small field at the southern tip of the island. The road to Jarlshof passes directly over a live, active runway, so that’s interesting. I suppose on an island, there is only so much room available. 

We had a fun evening on the ship listening to the lecture on the Hanseatic League, participating in a Gin Tasting event and trying our hand at creating a drink, attending the officer’s farewell reception, and enjoying the show in the theater. 

Day 14/15 9/5 and 9/6 Bergen, Norway

We finished this cruise in the land of the Vikings: Bergen, the ancient capital of Norse culture. The mountains rising sharply from the harbor make a beautiful backdrop to Bergen’s colorful downtown waterfront, known as Bryggen. The Hanseatic heritage commercial buildings are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Viking’s itinerary includes an overnight stay here, which gives you valuable time ashore. We chose the included Panoramic Bergen tour this morning, which took us past some of the highlights in downtown Bergen near the waterfront. 

After the tour we chose to stay in town and found a harbor-side spot serving fish and chips. It was a perfect spot for a quick lunch. We then took the Fløibanen funicular up to the top of Mount Fløyen, and hiked the trails at the summit with views out over the fjords and the city below. You can purchase your tickets online to avoid the queue at the embarkation point. You definitely do not need a ship tour to do this. We spent our last fun evening on the ship hanging out in the Explorer’s Lounge before heading back to our cabin to get packed up.

We had a nice leisurely breakfast before disembarking the ship the next morning around 9 am. I took a Viking transfer bus to the airport. I don’t recall the fee, but it wasn’t much, and it was the easiest way to get to the airport. (Steve took a train to Oslo to catch a jump seat on his airline.) 

Summary

We were quite pleased with the itinerary and the quality of the excursions, service, and dining and entertainment options on this cruise. This was our first ocean voyage on Viking, and it will not be our last. Here is a recap of my best advice: 

Pack for every kind of weather, but do not overpack for this cruise. September in the British Isles can mean sunshine in London and potential gales in Shetland. Layers and a waterproof jacket are advised. See my complete packing list for everything I took.

Book private tours for ports like Edinburgh and Inverness where you want maximum flexibility. Viking’s included and optional excursions are good, but private operators can customize entirely around your interests.

Do not skip the lecture series. Viking brings in lecturers who are experts on geology, history, archaeology, and culture specific to the route. We would not have taken the Knockan Crag hike had we not attended that lecture.

Reserve specialty dining and spa appointments on embarkation day. Slots tend to fill up quickly. The spa itself (pools, sauna, snow grotto) is included and definitely worth visiting. 

Viking’s itinerary moves quickly — a new port almost every day — but the ship itself is a beautiful sanctuary. You can always choose to skip a tour and simply sit in the Wintergarden with a coffee and watch the coastline of Scotland slide by. On a trip this full, quiet time is valuable. We tend to vacation really hard and pack our days chock full of activities. The more we travel, the more we are learning to slow down a bit, take the time to relax, and savor the journey as much as the destinations. 

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